Blue dashlights for a 2005 chevy license#

the superwhite led's that i used are so much better than the stock bulbs.

I changed all the bulbs to blue except the front and rear map lights because i still wanted them to be functional.

Blue dashlights for a 2005 chevy license#

I changed the dome light to the 39mm 9 led blue festoon bulbs, 2 rear map lights to the 39mm 9led superwhite festoon bulbs, two underdash #194 matrix blue led, 4 door lights to the #194 inverted blue led, 2 license plate bulbs #194 clear focused lense, 2 puddle lights 39mm 9 led blue festoon bulbs(u need to squeeze the metal contacts to make it a tighter fit), 1 glove box #194 6 led blue clear focused lense, 1 ashtray #194 incadescent blue bulb(not led) and 2 front map lights #194 6 led superwhite clear focused lense with a little bit of bending of the reflector. But I did want to provide a general overview, if nothing more than for my own records, which much of my site is for anyways.I just finished changing all my interior bulbs to blue and superwhite. There is a lot of information out there with some very good, detailed photos of doing such an LED swap, therefore I did not go too deep into my own personal swap. This is the same pin that the vehicle’s dimmer switch is connected to, so all we’re doing here is simulating the trucks dimming feature. I found the LED’s would operate between an input voltage of 3-12V. The negative wire (wire on left) goes to ground, and the wire to the right of it goes to your positive DC power supply. There’s just two wires you need to connect: While I had this all in my office, I was able to power the backlights (just the lights in the white area of the board) using a 12V adjustable power supply. A quick test proved the fix to be successful! The remedy was to simply apply additional solder to each joint. While I couldn’t visually see any issues, slight prying from the sides of them with a small flat-head screwdriver showed that several were broke and bent right up with very little force. The heating and cooling between using can cause the solder joints to break, which is exactly what happened here. They’re also said to be underratted for their job, so heat becomes an issue. From the factory very little solder was used to hold them down. The 7 resistors circled in blue (511 resistors) are the typical problem when the display goes out. The PRND321 display was the next item I tackled. In this particular photo, the middle-right LED failed to work after replacement, so I simply removed it and stuck in a new LED/resistor combo. This makes installing the LED’s and resistors easy, since all I’d have to do is heat up the new solder blob and insert the wire lead, with no additional solder needed. On each solder pad I placed a nice blob of solder. I removed all the old bumps and blue plastic stands simply be breaking them off, no soldering needed for that. There are 8 of them in total on my board (some have a 9th bulb in the bottom left area, mine is blank). All the dash lights I’d be replacing are located in the white masked area. The circuit board may appear a bit daunting, but it’s really not too bad. I set them to the side and lifted the top cover off to reveal the circuit board below. It took more force that I would have thought, but it worked and nothing broke. The needles all popped-up using a fork shoved under neither of them very carefully and prying until they came up. This will help re-position them again during assembly. With the instrument panel removed, I turned all the needles as far counter-clockwise as they’d go.

By that time I had already removed my instrument panel and had it all ready for the LED replacements. A late Thursday night order for blue LED’s and 470 ohm resistors made their way to me by Saturday afternoon. While I have literally hundreds of LED’s in my office of every color there is, I did not have many that were flat-top, which tend to have a larger viewing angle (better light dispersal to reduce “hot” spots) than the domed LED’s I had amassed. Time to change all that!įirst and foremost, lets start with the before and after photos: Having always been a Ford owner, is this some kind of Chevy thing? The gear selector display (also referred to as the PRND321 display) was also not working, which turned the task of shifting gears into more guess work than it should have been. It seemed like nearly half of all my interior lights were burned out - the instrument cluster, steering wheel, HVAC controls, door panels… everything had about 50% of the bulbs actually working.